First steps in Handbell Ringing
Bell Handling
Some novices have a little difficulty to begin with in making a handbell strike, once, and once only on a
handstroke or backstroke
movement.
It is the act of stopping the bell's movement that throws the clapper against the spring sufficiently strongly to make the clapper contact the bell.
And hence it may help beginners to get a feel for the handbells standing up in order to give more room for movement than is afforded by sitting down.
Some teachers advise learners to rest their bells on their knees after the backstroke.
This is a mistake and should be avoided as it is easy to dampen the sound which can be a distraction to other ringers.
Excessive upward and downward movement of the bells (sometimes described as "rat splatching") should be avoided,
but a mere wrist-flick movement is poor use of wrists and does not help with assimilation of the rhythm which is vital for good ringing.
The desired optimum is a combined, controlled but relaxed movement of both elbow and wrist.
Once the learner is comfortable ringing rounds and call changes, the spacings for Plain Hunting need to be learned and then practised.
See
Plain Hunting.
These two steps are (Call changes and Plain Hunting) the first example of the model in diagram 01.01.02.
- The structure of Plain Hunting is the theory
- The spacings of the pairs is the memory technique
- Counting the bells is the execution technique
- Practise takes place with a tutor in a team environment
- The output is the fluid (but abstract) music of Plain Hunting
Now you can ring Plain Hunting with a good rhythm, it's time to:
CELEBRATE.
For the vast majority, getting to ring two bells to Plain Hunting is a real achievement.
Then go on to learn and make achievements in
Plain Bob, by far the most important method for a hanbdbell change-ringer.
|